yaatra

Delhi and Agra (Apr 9 2006)

Sun, 09 Apr 2006 00:00:00 -0700

I would spend my final days in India in the country's two most-traveled cities: Delhi and Agra. While these are generally the first places tourists visit upon arriving in India, I'd saved them for last.

Delhi is exactly what I'd expected... a large overcrowded Westernized city with an increased dosage of pollution and noise. Upon arriving, I settled in a hotel in the Paharganj district, the Delhi equivalent of Bangkok's Khao San Road, where most travelers usually end up. There was so much that I wanted to see, but my time here was limited. Delhi houses a number of monuments, mansions, museums and mosques, all spread out in different corners of the city, which makes it quite difficult to see everything in a reasonable amount of time.

You quickly forget about Delhi's "inconveniences" once you set your eyes on its many wonders: the stunning presidential residence of Rashtrapati Bhavan, Humayun's Tomb, the Bahai (lotus) temple, Lal Qila (the red fort) and India's largest mosque, Jami Masjid. The list goes on. And the city is in for a major facelift, as it has recently been selected to host the 2010 Commonwealth Games. Plans are underway to clean up the city, improve its urban infrastructure, and to complete the Metro lines within the next few years.

Just over 200km southeast of Delhi lies Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Often described as one of the seven wonders of the modern world, few will argue that the Taj deserves its status as one of the world's greatest buildings. It took over twenty years and twenty thousand workers to complete construction of the complex, which is admired today by millions for its beauty, its fine decorative details, its perfect symmetry and its many myths and theories.

Although it may seem that I spent most of my remaining time in India sightseeing, I was preoccupied with the thought that my trip was coming to an end. I would have to prepare myself for the difficult transition back to the life I'd temporarily abandoned and give up all of the liberties, thrills and comforts I'd become accustomed to while traveling. True, I would be returning to a more "comfortable" and convenient way of life but I still felt that, in leaving India, I would be losing more than what I would be gaining.

Rajasthan (Apr 1 2006)

Sat, 01 Apr 2006 00:00:00 -0800

Over 60% of India's tourists visit the state of Rajasthan, to marvel at its many palaces, forts and temples. It is possibly India's most exotic and colorful state, where the locals dress in vibrant traditional clothing and share the roads with horses, camels, elephants, and (of course) cows. The major cities have unofficially adopted color schemes over the centuries, with houses and buildings colorwashed in similar shades across towns.

Jodhpur (the blue city) is centered around the imposing Meherangarh fort, erected in the 1500s, and the surrounding town is dotted with sky-blue cubic houses. Further south of the fort lies the Umaid Bhawan Palace (built for Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1929) containing 347 rooms, a cinema, and an indoor swimming pool. Like most visitors, I only spent one day in Jodhpur before moving on to the next city on my trail.

Often described as being the most romantic place in India, Udaipur (the white city) lies in a narrow valley divided by a lake. The grand City Palace is the largest royal complex in Rajasthan, with stunning marble and granite walls decorated with paintings and colored-glass mosaics. However, Udaipur is best known for its "floating" palaces, two islands in Lake Pichola: Jag Mandir and Jag Niwas (Lake Palace). These magnificent ivory-white palaces, accessible only by a short boat ride, appear to float in the reflecting waters. Nearby, the hilltop Sajjangarh (Monsoon Palace) provides views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Close to the Pakistani border, Jaisalmer (the golden city) is a desert town almost entirely constructed from yellow sandstone. A significant portion of the town is occupied by the massive fort, where over 2000 people live and work. While most tourists come to Jaisalmer in order to arrange a camel safari in the Thar desert, I ended up getting sick (again) and consequently had to cancel the 2-day expedition.

The last city on my Rajasthani circuit was Jaipur (the pink city), the third-most visited city in India (after Delhi and Agra). One of the reasons for its popularity is its reputation for being one of the best places in the country to shop for textiles, jewellery, and pottery. Within the Pink City walls lie the grand City Palace, the five-story Hawa Mahal, and the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory. Unfortunately, this beautiful city suffers from heavy traffic (and pollution) and an abundance of aggressive scam-artists, making it a stressful place to wander through.

I immediately sensed that the Rajasthani people very warm and approachable (as long as they weren't trying to sell me something), and we often engaged in hour-long conversations over some chai. Traveling between the different cities, I often saw the same faces popping up again in buses, restaurants, and monuments. It was refreshing to meet so many young travelers once again, and it made the experience a lot more enjoyable.

Goa and Mumbai (Mar 28 2006)

Tue, 28 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

In the 1960s and -70s, an influx of hippies had popularized Goa, where they had found an inexpensive and exotic destination to engage in hedonistic behavior and consume copious amounts of drugs. By the late 1980s and -90s, it had transfigured into a beach paradise of rave culture, with techno and trance dominating the local music scene. In recent years it has undergone another facelift, with the establishment of five-star resorts catering to rich Europeans, it has become a playground for parasites (tourists).

After 450 years of Portugese colonization, this traditional Catholic region, with its laid-back and carefree attitude, has little in common with the rest of the country. Although the population today is predominantly Hindu, the prevalence of whitewashed churches, Portugese last names (De Souza, Da Silva, etc.), and other vestiges, remains a constant reminder of Goa's past during which countless Hindus were converted to Christianity and their temples destroyed. A devoted Catholic population continues to practice its faith, and some Goans still speak to each other in Portugese.

On the day of my arrival in Goa, there were many reasons to celebrate. All throughout India, people were staining each other with bright-colored paints to mark the festival of Holi. (As I walked through the street, a group of adorable children made sure to cover my face and t-shirt with fluorescent green paint.) It was also the second day of the Jewish festival of Purim, and I was fortunate enough to be staying just a few minutes from a Chabad House where I spent the evening eating and drinking with cheerful Israelis. And, lastly, it was also the night of the infamous full-moon party. However, since the Goan government cracked down on these events a couple of years ago, banning amplified music after 10pm, they have since been relegated to indoor venues and nightclubs. Though, I suspect that the motivation for this is to decrease the number of young (low-spending) travelers in order to bring in older and wealthier tourists.

I had chosen Anjuna, an alternative village in North Goa, as the place where I would base myself and spend most of my time. Here, most signs are subtitled in Hebrew, since many Israelis come here fresh out of the army, generally to party and indulge in hallucinogens. Consequently, this has led to the springing up of rehabilitation clinics in the surrounding area (and is possibly what motivated Chabad to have a presence here and to provide spiritual guidance and support). I'd come here at a quiet time, outside of peak season, so accommodations were not in short supply and the nearby beaches of Vagator and Chapora were relatively deserted. However, more developed beaches such as Calangute and Baga (renowned for its fine dining and glam nightlife) were booming with their charter-tourist clientele (the ones who come to India to stay exclusively in a beach resort in Goa).

And so, for the next five days, I did what I'd been longing to do for several weeks: nothing. I'd set a few days of my itinerary aside for Goa, knowing that this would be a place where I would be expected to shamelessly act like a lazy tourist, and not feel particularly guilty about it. There was a pool in the hotel where I was staying, and here I would spend several hours of each day tanning, reading, swimming, and listening to music. The juice bar by the pool was where I would contemplate the difficult daily decisions: Watermelon or pineapple? Mango or strawberry? Ice or no ice? And somehow, I still managed to find some free time to lay on the beach and wander around aimlessly in the nearby towns.

From there, I traveled to Panjim, the state capital of Goa. Here, all the streets have Portugese names, and most businesses close on Sundays. Colonial-era buildings, churches, and crucifixes dominate the pleasantly uncongested streets of this central Goan town. I then had to make my way to the nearby town of Margao to catch an overnight train to Mumbai.

Mumbai (formerly named Bombay), a megalopolis of 18 million inhabitants, ranks as one of the most populated cities in the world. With its unique blend of architectural styles, it houses several extravagant landmarks and buildings including the Gateway of India (Mumbai's "Arc de Triomphe"), the Prince of Wales Museum (with its massive Moghul-style dome) and Chhatraputi Shivaji Terminus (possibly the most impressive railway station in India). For many reasons, Mumbai could be dubbed India's Los Angeles with its Bollywood film industry, its office block towers, its Beverly Hills-style condo buildings, its eight-lane Marine Drive along Chowpatty Beach, and its trendy nightspots. The downtown area is surprisingly clean (thanks to a ban on rickshaws and other polluting vehicles) and is one of the rare places in India where there are traffic lights, road signs, and lane divisions. While there is a lot of wealth in this Westernized city, there are countless people sleeping on the streets and in the surrounding slums.

Colaba, the popular traveler's district of hotels and cafes, is where I spent my time when I wasn't busy sightseeing around the city. Here, I met many travelers, many of whom had just arrived from Goa or were on their way there. While in Mumbai, it was impossible to pass up the opportunity to attend a screening of a Hindi film. Bollywood is the largest film industry in the world (in terms of the number of films produced and tickets sold) and the local cinema houses provide ideal venues to watch these films with an enthusiastic Indian audience. Although my stay in Mumbai was limited to two days, it was definitely pleasant and didn't feel too rushed.

Kerala and Bangalore (Mar 15 2006)

Wed, 15 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

Indians always appear to be in a hurry... they drive at suicidal speeds, they rush off trains and buses before even coming to a complete stop, they often cut in front when queuing in a line, and they don't seem to waste any time to marry off their sons and daughters. However, this fast-paced way of living seems foreign to the locals of Varkala, a village in the southern state of Kerala. This beach destination, with its red-laterite cliffs, is a world apart from India's crowded cities.

I arrived here by passing through Thiruvananthapuram at the southern tip of the country and settled in a clifftop hotel overlooking the Arabian Sea. Unfortunately, Varkala has recently developed into a popular tourism destination. While I love meeting travelers from around the globe, I sometimes get annoyed by "tourists": the ones who do as they please, not realizing that they are guests in someone's country. The ones who don't care about the local culture and customs, and think that money grants them the right to be bossy and condescending towards the locals. While some of the Keralans are grateful for the revenue tourism generates, you can also sense that they are shocked and offended by the sight of sunbathers laying topless on the beach... something that is frowned upon by the Hindus and Muslims of the region. To quote a line from Bride & Prejudice, these tourists want to "come to India without having to deal with Indians".

In such a quiet place, surrounded by so many foreigners, it is dangerously easy to forget that you are in India. Within a few days, I felt that I was wasting precious time when I could instead be seeing other parts of the country. So, I decided to travel along the Kuttanad Backwaters of Kerala on a ferry from Kollam to Alappuzha. The eight-hour boat journey was a memorable experience, drifting through waterways of lakes, rivers, and canals lined with tropical greenery. It was fascinating to see the preserved rural way of life, with homes, schools and temples hiding among the trees, and villagers going about their day.

After spending a night in Alappuzha, I hopped on a bus to Kochi, a city spread across islands between the backwaters and the Arabian Sea. Getting around the city involved taking local ferries between Fort Cochin, Mattancherry, and Ernakulam (each journey costing around five cents). Kochi's rich and complex history is reflected by the presence of Portugese and Dutch palaces, Chinese fishing nets, European churches, and a Jewish synagogue. It is believed that the Myuchasim Jews arrived here in 587 BC, fleeing from the occupation of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar, and remained as respected members of Keralan society until the Portugese Inquisition (16th century). The raja of Kochi had generously offered them protection and a piece of land, and the district (appropriately named "Jew Town") still exists today after almost 500 years. Although most of the community had emigrated to Israel in the 1940s and 50s, a few families and an active synagogue remain.

My next stop after Kerala was Bangalore, state capital of Karnataka. Overhyped in the 1990s as the "Silicon Valley" of the subcontinent, I arrived here expecting to find a modern city, akin to Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok. Instead, I found a city with a crumbling infrastructure, plagued by traffic, pollution, and poverty. While Bangalore is visibly more Westernized than the other Indian cities I'd visited previously, it is far from modern, lacking basic resources to deal with its rapid growth. Thus, there are modern shopping malls and skyscrapers throughout the city, however they stand on crumbling roads, surrounded by garbage-filled sidewalks, and are subjected to frequent power cuts (I experienced three in one day). In addition to being in poor condition, the roads are too narrow to deal with the volume of cars, rickshaws, and yes, even cows, that comprise the chaos of Indian traffic. So, it is not surprising that most of the multi-national companies that had settled here in the last decade have since relocated to Hyderabad (where President Bush had visited just a few days earlier).

Although I only spent two days here, I made an effort to see the different areas of the city, residential and commercial. However, there was little of interest to see and I encountered few travelers, so it should come as no surprise that I spent most of my free time isolated in malls, restaurants, and internet cafes. Despite its shortcomings and lack of touristic appeal, Bangalore is a major transport hub and its shopping malls can offer a safe haven to weary travelers.

Orissa and Chennai (Mar 10 2006)

Fri, 10 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

At this point, I've only been in India for a few days, but I already feel comfortable here. I've grown used to being asked all the usual curious questions and being constantly stared at. I've grasped the basic chaotic laws of traffic: pedestrians have no rights, using the horn supersedes turn signals and common sense, and everybody must yield to cows. I understand that touching anything with one's left hand is considered impolite, however spitting, burping, and picking one's nose is acceptable behavior. It is considered shocking if a husband and wife hold hands in public, however two men can often be seen embracing or holding hands as a sign of "brotherliness". I've also learned not to ask questions requiring "yes" or "no" answers, since Indians are incapable of saying "no" and generally shake their heads confusingly when they mean "yes". And, baksheesh has become an essential part of everyday life here.

Despite the chaos, contradictions, and idiosyncrasies, the country boasts one of the most efficient rail systems (even though it is confusing to foreigners at first). There are generally between four and seven classes of travel to choose from, though only the lower classes are affordable by backpacker standards (non-AC second class sleeper is my favorite, costing $5 for a 500km journey). And, nothing beats an overnight train... it saves me a night's hotel bill without missing too much precious daylight. (Plus, you get woken up at 5:00am by the delicious aroma of hot chai tea.)

Upon my return from Nepal, I went directly from Kolkata airport to the train station, and boarded the night train for Puri (a city in the province of Orissa). Despite being one of India's poorest regions, Orissa claims the highest concentration of historical and religious monuments. Puri is popular with Hindu pilgrims who come here in great numbers on an annual yaatra.

The town's Jagannath temple, one of the four holy dhams, is what draws pilgrims, whereas the low-key atmosphere and nearby beach attract most Western (and Japanese) travelers. Some of the foreigners I'd met had been staying here for a few weeks. (One German man staying at my hotel had been living there for six years.) I would only spend a day here before moving on to Konarak.

Rediscovered just under 100 years ago, the famous Sun Temple of Konarak lay buried in the sand for over 300 years. Conceived in the form of a chariot for the sun god Surya, it features seven sandstone horses and 24 wheels carved in stunning detail. The exterior walls are lined with beautiful erotic sculptures depicting images from the Kama Sutra, which feel somehow out of place in a country, which today, blushes at the slightest reference to sexuality.

I spent the rest of the day in Bhubaneswar, the Orissan capital famous for its hundreds of medieval temples. I wandered from Dhauli Hill (site of the World Peace Pagoda), to the Lingaraj temple, then to the Khandagiri and Udaigiri temples, making a final stop at the Nandankanan zoo before resting for the journey ahead.

After spending nearly 24 hours on a train, I arrived in Chennai (formerly named Madras), India's fourth largest city. Like Kolkata, it is noisy, hot, and congested... although surprisingly expensive (by Indian standards). Accommodations, taxis, and rickshaws cost nearly double what they would normally cost elsewhere. And there is little in the way of sights besides the impressive Kapalishvara temple, Valluvar Kottam, some government buildings, and the long (5km) Marina beach. However, the modern commercial strip, Anna Salai Road, is where one can find almost everything: shops, restaurants (including "Subway" and "Pizza Hut"), banks, consulates, airline offices, a post office, and lots of white people.

By this point, I was feeling much better after getting sick in Nepal nine days earlier. Some magic pink pills that a pharmacist in Puri had prescribed to me seemed to have restored me back to health, and I was now able to eat (and digest) solid foods. So, after a couple of days in Chennai, I was ready to get on another train, this time towards the southernmost tip of the subcontinent.

Nepal (Mar 5 2006)

Sun, 05 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

"Namaste!" Nepal was a last-minute addition to my trip itinerary after finding a cheap flight online. Therefore, I didn't have a lot of time to allocate and could only squeeze in one week. Given the amount of time, I had planned to spend two nights in Kathmandu, one afternoon in Pokhara, two days mountain trekking, and two days white-water rafting. It was ambitious, but feasible... except something happened: I fell ill halfway through.

Having just arrived in Kathmandu from Kolkata, I wasn't shocked or bothered by the hassle and pollution of the city. I found a friendly guesthouse at the edge of Thamel, the popular tourist ghetto where Western restaurants, Internet cafes and tour operators dominate a labyrinth of small streets. Most of my sightseeing was limited to Durbar Square, and the Newar Pagoda temples and Stupas of the surrounding area.

On the second morning, I hopped on a bus to Pokhara, a town made famous by hippies in the early 1970s. The drive there entailed traversing through rugged roads, across mountains and valleys, with superb views along the way. Pokhara's epicenter is Phewa Tal, a peaceful lake surrounded by mountains, behind which lie the snow-capped Himalaya. This place seemed to have more in common with Queenstown (New Zealand) than Kathmandu, and I was lucky to find an affordable room in one of the top lakeside hotels. (Though, I had no idea then that I would be spending the next few days bedridden in that room.)

The following day, I went on a trek up the nearby mountain of Sarangkot (1592m). Although I'd planned on trekking for two days, I arrived at the summit feeling very ill, presumably from something I'd eaten the night before. Thus, I had to turn back and painfully make my descent. I remained in my hotel room for the next three days, stepping out occasionally to get some fresh air (and some water or toilet paper). The most regrettable part was having to cancel a two-day white-water rafting and camping trip in the Seti river. (It turned out that two of the people I was supposed to go with also got sick and cancelled at the last minute.)

One of the things I should mention is the current political situation in Nepal. A Maoist uprising, which began in 1996 as a response to government corruption, has led to the loss of several thousand lives. In 2001, the king (along with most of his family) was murdered, and subsequently replaced. Today, the current king (Gyanendra) is not very popular with the people, mainly because of his unconstitutional behavior and role in the 2002 dissolution of the government. An election had just taken place a week prior to my arrival, yet I could still feel a lot of tension in the air. Most Nepali (with pressure from the Maoists) want the king replaced (or, at least to act within the constitution). Not surprisingly, the recent violence and political problems have resulted in a 70% drop in the annual number of tourists in Nepal.

While in Pokhara, it was impossible not to notice the intimidating presence of armed soldiers in camouflage guarding the streets. I soon found out that the soldiers were there to guard the king, who happened to be staying across the street from my hotel, in his vacation palace (less than 50m away). Also, on the day of my trek up Sarangkot, I had just missed seeing the king as I had reached the summit 10 minutes after his helicopter had taken off. On that same day, Nepal's main political parties had called (and enforced) a nationwide strike to protest the king's recent actions involving some unlawful arrests. Consequently, all shops and businesses were closed, and transportation between cities was frozen, as all of the roads were being blocked by Maoist strikers.

The morning after I'd become ill, I awoke in a state of drowsiness and walked outside to find the streets completely deserted and still. There was not a single tourist in sight, and the silence was interrupted only by the passing of a couple of white armored vehicles bearing the United Nations logo, with the words "Human Rights" painted in bold letters on the doors. I was afraid that something terrible had happened, yet none of the locals seemed to be aware and there was no mention of anything on the news or Internet. As the day progressed, things gradually appeared to get back to normal... everything, that is, except the condition of my health.

I returned to Kathmandu a couple of days later, where I would spend my last night before flying back to India. On the day of my departure, in the morning, I embarked on a small plane for a one-hour mountain flight through the Great Himalaya Range. The flight took us into the Khumbu Valley at an altitude of 7500m, just 9km from Everest (known as Sagamartha to Nepalis). It was possible to marvel at the majestic peak and observe the Tibetan Plateau in the background. The nearby mountains were equally impressive, towering between 6000m and 8500m in elevation.

During my last few hours in Nepal, I realized that my watch had been set to the wrong time zone for my entire time here. Nepal adopts its own unique time zone (GMT plus 5:45) for reasons that are confusing and mysterious. The illogical 15-minute time difference between Nepal and India meant that I had been late all week, from catching buses to checking out of hotels. (Ironically, I should've remembered this since I had posted this information on my own website prior to leaving.) Oops!

Despite getting sick, I really enjoyed my short stay in this enchanting country. In addition to the gorgeous scenery, I admired the colorful culture of these kind and fascinating people. My wish is that the current political situation resolves swiftly and peacefully so that tourists and travelers can return here in greater numbers and help the nation prosper.

Kolkata (Mar 4 2006)

Sat, 04 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

Kolkata (formerly named Calcutta) is a difficult city to enjoy. Most travelers I'd spoken to had spent little time here or had skipped it altogether. Its reputation for poverty has eclipsed the touristic appeal of this great urban mess. This was my first stop on my Indian itinerary and would prepare me for what was to come.

Walking around Kolkata is an extremely intense experience that can be quite taxing on the senses. The haze stings your eyes, the noise from traffic hurts your ears, the filth and pollution gets into your nose and lungs... and with over 13 million inhabitants, the city is very crowded. Even more difficult is having to deal with the number of people (mostly children) approaching, grabbing and following you, hoping to get a few Rupees. You soon learn that the best way to give out change is to do it discretely, making sure nobody else notices, and walk away swiftly before others (sometimes more deserving) follow.

Looking at the photographs I have taken of Kolkata, you will see beautiful marble edifices of Moghul and Italian architecture, gothic cathedrals, and peaceful gardens. You will see images taken in places where it is safe, and moments when it is appropriate, to pull out my camera and shoot a picture. What you will not see are photos of people in less fortunate circumstances living on the street... sleeping, bathing, eating or defecating on the sidewalks overflowing with garbage.

Despite the seemingly negative picture I may be painting, there is much to like about Kolkata and there are, surprisingly, areas that are relatively developed and wealthy. You can find five-star hotels, fancy restaurants, modern boutiques and trendy nightclubs coexisting with poverty. I am glad to have come here, mainly because this is something that I needed to see and experience. A visit to India would not be complete without spending a few days here.

Cambodia (Mar 2 2006)

Thu, 02 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

I entered the Kingdom of Cambodia through the northwestern Thailand-Cambodia border at Poipet, and exited from Krong Koh Kong in the southwest. For the seven days inbetween, I experienced a taste of the wonder and beauty this country has to offer.

It's an interesting time to visit Cambodia when you consider how much it has changed in the last few decades. The days of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge are long gone, and many of the country's landmines have been cleared. Most of the roads are unpaved or unfinished, and there are no bridges where there ought to be, thus traveling between towns can be painfully long and bumpy. Additionally, it isn't as Westernized as some of its neighbors, however it is inevitably heading in that direction. (It is worth noting that the local currency, the Riel, is almost never used by anyone... prices everywhere are listed in US Dollars.)

On the (painfully long and bumpy) busride to Siem Reap, I met two sisters from Brazil (Valentine and Eliza) and Adam (from New Zealand). The four of us immediately clicked, and we ended up traveling together almost the entire time. Arriving into town, we passed through about a dozen newly-built five-star hotels that are the result of a recent tourism boom in the region of Angkor.

An integral part of any visit to Cambodia, the ruins of Angkor remain a site of one of mankind's greatest achievements. The complex consists of hundreds of Hindu-Buddhist temples and monuments spanning several squared kilometers, built between the 9th and 13th centuries by the Khmer civilization.

Our two-day tour of the ruins included visits to Angkor Wat (the world's largest religious building), Bayon (the temple of 216 faces of Avalokitesvara), and Ta Prohm (an entanglement of trees and roots devouring a massive temple). Other sites included Baphuon, the Terrace of Elephants, Phnom Bakheng, Ta Keo and numerous others. Along with thousands of tourists crowding the monuments, we took hundreds of photographs from sunrise to sunset.

From Siem Reap, we traveled together to the capital of Phnom Penh, where we stayed at a charming guesthouse on Lake Boeng Kak. Although we spent much of our time relaxing, we also visited the spectacular Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, which houses a life-sized solid-gold Buddha covered in ten thousand diamonds (some weighing up to 25 carats). Afterwards, we made our way to Tuol Sleng Museum (formerly known as S-21 Prison), an old high school used by Pol Pot's forces to emprison and torture thousands before transporting them to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek (now referred to as the "Killing Fields"). A visit here is essential to understanding the country's gruesome past, in which nearly two million Cambodians were killed solely because they were educated or "looked intelligent", so that the Khmer Rouge government could control and transform the nation.

Adam and I made our way south to Sihanoukville after Valentine and Eliza left Phnom Penh for India. Relatively quiet and undeveloped, this beach town is sure to become a major tourist resort hotspot within five years. We arrived in time for the Full Moon party, where about 200 backpackers filled a small stretch of beach outside of a nightclub where the music played all night.

Leaving Cambodia wasn't easy, as I'd fallen in love with the country and yearned to see more of it. Despite the heartbreaking poverty and tortured past, there is something peaceful and charming about this place that can't easily be described. Come and visit this country for yourself, and I am certain you'll feel the same way.

Thailand Part 2 (Mar 2 2006)

Thu, 02 Mar 2006 00:00:00 -0800

After a few days of partying and laziness in Southern Thailand's gorgeous beach islands, I traveled up the length of the country to Chiang Mai in the North. My guidebook described this city as being "cool in every sense of the word" and "a candy store for the cultural traveler". After spending over 30 hours to get here, I seriously hoped it would be.

Arriving into Chiang Mai, you immediately notice certain things. Firstly, the city center is shaped in a perfect square, surrounded by a moat and old fort walls. Secondly, there are a lot of temples... over 300 to be exact. And, there are countless schools, offering classes in language, cooking, massage, meditation, and kickboxing. You also notice a recurring trend... everywhere you look, a white man is walking with a young Thai girl (or boy) by his side.

At the time of my visit, Chiang Mai was hosting its annual Flower Festival, the town's biggest celebration. There were parades featuring flower-made floats, beauty pageants, and garden competitions featuring the most exotic and colorful displays of botanic specimen from around the country. I also made sure to check out the multi-block night bazaar and night markets, where street vendors sell all types of goods and foods. Feeling a little adventurous, I wandered one night into a Muay Thai (kickboxing) bar, where I witnessed a live match of intense fighting.

After spending a couple of days here, I was to leave to Cambodia for a week. Upon my return, I traveled back across to Bangkok, where I would spend my remaining time before departing for the Indian Subcontinent. Bangkok is a modern Asian metropolis, yet it is also very hot, loud and polluted. It is also an important traveler's hub, therefore someone is always trying to approach you to rip you off or scam you in some way. To add to the problem, the police force is corrupt, so they do nothing about anything. Of course, this is to be expected, but it just makes wandering around the city a stressful and unpleasant experience.

Like most farangs (foreigners), I stayed in a guesthouse on Khao San Road (KSR). This street, known for its cheap accommodations, is crawling with backpackers and is a great place to meet people. Here, you can find just about anything you need, with 7-11s and American fast-food chains dotting the street. It's also within walking distance of many of Bangkok's landmarks, including Wat Phra Kaew, the Grand Palace, and the Democracy Monument.

The city being intimidatingly large, and there not being much to do or see, I wandered little outside the KSR area. I briefly visited Siam Square and the surrounding shopping megaplexes (Mahboonkrong and Discovery), and felt that I'd already had enough of Bangkok. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to see more of Thailand before leaving, but I was very satisfied with the places I had visited so far and hope to revisit them someday.

Thailand Part 1 (Feb 17 2006)

Fri, 17 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0800

Getting to Ko Phi Phi involved traveling on 3 minibuses, crossing the Malaysia-Thailand border, spending a night in Krabi, riding on the back of a sawngthaew (pick-up truck), and finally, taking a ferry. The entire affair took 24 hours and cost $24, but none of that mattered once I saw the limestone cliffs and beautiful beaches of this island paradise.

Just one year after it was hit by a devastating tsunami, the island has (almost too) quickly recovered and is now teeming with resorts, internet cafes, bars, restaurants, dive shops, etc... And tourists... lots of them. The island partly owes its popularity to the 2000 film The Beach, based on the Alex Garland novel which was, ironically, about a secret island that tourists did not know existed. Ever since it was disclosed as the shooting location for the film, it has become the antithesis of the utopian playground the film's characters had strived to create.

Popularity comes with a price and, in this case, it's the crowded beaches and the lack of affordable lodging on the island. Still cheaper than a dorm bed in an Australian youth hostel, private rooms here are quite expensive by Thai standards. Considering the level of luxury obtained for the money, I can't complain. Nor can I complain about the island's busy nightlife... there are many bars to choose from, several offering entertaining fireshows on the beach.

While on Ko Phi Phi, I met up with Phil and Maude, two Montrealers backpacking through Thailand, Australia and New Zealand. Although I'd known they'd be in Thailand at the same time as me, we coincidentally ended up being on the same small island on the same day. We had a lot of fun hanging out together and spending an afternoon at Maya Bay on Ko Phi Phi Leh (the actual Beach from the film). Now a tourist attraction with hundreds of daily visitors, it remains uninhabited, and is just as beautiful as the film proclaims.

After three nights on Ko Phi Phi, I was off to Ko Pha Ngan. Once again, this involved a long journey: a ferry to Krabi, two buses and two sawngthaews to Surat Thani, and an overnight ferry to the island. Much larger than Ko Phi Phi, Ko Pha Ngan is diverse enough to please all. With so many resorts, often with confusingly similar names and spellings, I unintentionally ended up on a quiet beach known as Laem Son. Here, I found a friendly family-run resort where, for $7 a night, I had my own wooden bungalow right on the beach. To quote the narrator from The Beach, this was "a beach resort for people who don't like beach resorts".

For three days, it was just me, a hammock, a book, and a bottle of sunscreen. My own piece of paradise and slice of beach, with only a few discrete neighbors who pretty much kept to themselves. Towards the end, it was just too peaceful and relaxing... I felt that I'd spent enough time in this beautiful place and wanted to see the real Thailand.

Malaysia (Feb 15 2006)

Wed, 15 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0800

I must admit that I was never particularly excited to go to Malaysia when preparing my itinerary. To me, it was just a country I had to travel across to go from Singapore to Thailand. While not as developed as the former, and not as exotic as the latter, this country is often overlooked by travelers. Thus, I'd only allocated around five days to traverse Peninsular Malaysia.

Having a little time to spare, my friend Marissa (from Montreal) joined me there for a couple of days. We took a bus from Singapore together to Melaka, a historic city that was once a Dutch-ruled trading port. Although we spent much of our time in the Chinatown markets, we also visited the Town Square and Stadthuys.

From Melaka, we took a bus to Kuala Lumpur, the country's pride and capital. The long-distance bus system of Malaysia is worth taking a moment to describe: for less than $5, one can travel 6-8 hours on an air-conditioned 24-seat luxury bus that would normally accommodate 60 people if it didn't have such spacious, fully reclinable, seats. Anyway, once we arrived in KL, we headed over to Little India to see the Pasar Malam night markets and to enjoy a nice meal. From there, we took a taxi to the famous Petaling Street markets in Chinatown, where all sorts of knock-offs and pirated merchandise are sold.

The following day, we traveled 13km and climbed 272 steps to visit the sacred Hindu Batu caves. Nearly a million visitors come here annually during the Thaipusam festival (end of January), often with metal hooks piercing their bodies as a form of penance. Unfortunately, I would not be in Malaysia during the festival, but the caves were still worth visiting. Afterwards, we went to the famous Petronas towers (the tallest in the world) and took the elevator to the 41st floor, where we gazed down at the city from the Skybridge connecting the two towers. I spent one more day in KL after Marissa returned to Singapore and then journeyed solo to Penang.

On the busride to Penang, I traveled through the breathtaking Cameron Highlands before crossing the spectacular Penang Bridge (13.5km, third longest in the world) connecting the island to the mainland. There, I stayed the night at the (surprisingly affordable) Cathay Hotel, which I later learned was used as a filming location for the 1995 film Beyond Rangoon. On my last day, I walked around touring Georgetown's colonial era buildings and then visited the historical Jewish cemetery (dating back from 1805).

Reflecting about my initial expectations of Malaysia, I'd have to say that I was pleasantly surprised to have enjoyed it so much. I regretted having had to rush through the Cameron Highlands without going hiking or jungle trekking, yet at the same time, I was glad that I now had more time to spend in Thailand and Cambodia.

Bali (Feb 14 2006)

Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0800

Disembarking my Singapore Airlines flight at Denpasar Airport, I arrived in Bali on a very hot and humid morning. Before even retrieving my luggage, I was approached by over a dozen people persistently offering to carry my bags, change my money, or drive me to a hotel. Wanting to go to Kuta Beach to spend my first day, I asked a taxi driver how much it would cost to drive me there. His reply: "Special price for you, my friend: $18 USD!" Knowing that Kuta was only a 30-minute drive away, I laughed and politely told him to get lost. After walking out of the airport and crossing the road, I found a metered taxi willing to charge me the correct price of $1.80 USD.

Kuta Beach is the area of Bali that was hit during the October 2002 and October 2005 terrorist bombings. In addition to suffering numerous casualties, the people of Kuta have lost a tremendous amount of tourism. With fewer visitors, the local people have grown more desperate and aggressive. There are now fewer tourists than taxi/moto drivers, therefore they all try to outcompete each other for business... sometimes even offering drugs or other services to lure customers. Aside from all that, Kuta does have a beautiful beach and very inexpensive hotels and resorts. However, I wish I'd spent less time here and more time in the surrounding villages.

After Kuta, I took a taxi to Lovina on a very rainy day through the beautiful green countryside. There were a couple of scary moments when the taxi broke down and wouldn't start: once while on a steep slope on the mountain. Fortunately, the driver was also a skilled mechanic, and was able to repair the problem within a few minutes, despite the heavy rainfall. I arrived in Lovina in the afternoon, with the streets flooded from the day's rain. I proceeded to see the town's famous volcanic black-sand beaches and even tried to spot some dolphins, though none were to be found. One of the most striking aspects of Lovina was how peaceful and quiet it was compared to Kuta. There were very few tourists, and the locals were extremely hospitable and genuinely kind. Thus, you can imagine that I was upset to have to leave the following day.

Ubud, the cultural center of Bali, is full of exciting things to see... impressive temples and palaces, as well as countless art galleries displaying works from the surrounding regions. The disappointing thing about all of this beautiful Balinese artwork is that I couldn't bring any of it back home with me. A painting or stone sculpture would be quite costly to ship to Canada, probably exceeding the cost of the work itself. Smaller items would be too fragile to carry in my backpack, which was already quite full at this point. Fortunately, I did spend time in some of the factories and workshops, watching the skillful artists producing these works.

On the drive back to Denpasar-Kuta, the bus broke down in the middle of a busy road (on two occasions), requiring all of us on board to help push it along until it would start again. I wish I'd taken some photos, as it was quite a funny moment. Ultimately, the bus wasn't able to make it to the station, therefore we had to abandon it and take taxis for the remaining couple of kilometers.

Leaving Bali to return to Singapore, I felt that my visit here had been too short, without enough time spent in the places I really enjoyed. But still, I was comforted by the fact that I had a few more weeks in Southeast Asia to look forward to.

Singapore (Feb 1 2006)

Wed, 01 Feb 2006 00:00:00 -0800

"Clean", "modern", "efficient", "orderly", and "safe" are adjectives generally attributed to Singapore. It is often mockingly called "a fine city", because even the most trivial offenses (gum chewing, littering, jaywalking) are punishable with hefty fines. It is a wealthy and multicultural place where you'll find an ethnic mix of Chinese, Malay and Indian. Singapore is also a great starting point for anyone traveling in Southeast Asia... there is none of the chaotic mayhem that makes the rest of the continent so "charming", and everybody speaks English fluently.

It is impossible to recount my experiences in Singapore without mentioning Marissa. A friend of mine from Montreal (her house is exactly 3 blocks away from mine), she'd been studying at the National University of Singapore for a semester and had promised to give me a tour of the city upon my arrival. To say that she kept her promise is an understatement... I was welcomed and shown around with incomparable hospitality and generosity. When she wasn't in class or at a seminar, her schedule was always free... always taking me to another attraction, restaurant or nightclub.

I arrived in Singapore during the wettest time of the year, but my guidebook had assured me that "the weather makes little difference to a city that consists largely of air-conditioned shopping malls." With further confirmation from my friend Albert, he'd warned me in advance that there wasn't much to do here except "eat and buy stuff." Since I wasn't planning on shopping, I knew that I'd be in for a gastronomical treat.

Ignoring the omnipresence of American fast-food chains, Singapore has some truly delightful restaurants and food centres. In my 5 days, I savored a healthy variety of cuisines... Indian, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, Italian, American... sometimes in excessive quantities, but often at cheap prices. Although my budget didn't allow for any shopping, I still enjoyed browsing through Orchard Road, a street lined with giant shopping malls adjacent to one another. Also interesting was Sim Lim Square, a six-story mall consisting of hundreds of almost identical shops, all selling cameras and other consumer electronics.

Of course, I did find other things to do besides eating and shopping. I began by visiting the Colonial District, Kampung Glam (Muslim quarter), Little India and Chinatown, strolling through the streets and visiting temples and mosques. With Marissa, I visited the NUS campus, went on a taxi boat (motorised sampan) tour on the Singapore river along Clarke Quay, walked through the luxurious Raffles Hotel and enjoyed the view from the Swissotel rooftop bar. I also spent some time marveling at relics and artwork in the Asian Civilisations Museum, and at lions, elephants, giraffes and hyenas at the Singapore Zoological Gardens' Night Safari.

Singapore is a unique city/country/island... where Eastern tradition meets Western modernity. You can walk through the heart of Chinatown and find a McDonald's or Starbuck's... yet you walk inside and it is covered in Chinese New Year decorations and you can even order a Gong Xi Prosperity Burger. At the end of my stay, I can't say that I was sad to leave... but I was glad to have come here (and thankful to have Marissa as my guide).

Tasmania and Melbourne (Jan 28 2006)

Sat, 28 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0800

After Sydney, my last week in Australia would be spent in Tasmania and Melbourne before leaving this great country that I'd grown to love. While planning my trip, I'd read an interesting statistic regarding Tasmania: only 3% of Australia's visitors make it to this island. Many people are unfamiliar with it, often confusing it with the phonetically similar African nation of Tanzania. Most who have heard of it are generally familiar with the existence of one of its species: the Tasmanian Devil. (And yes, I did spot one, though it was lying dead on a road.)

In many respects, Tassie (as the locals call it) feels more like New Zealand than Australia. The weather is cooler, the terrain is more rugged, and like New Zealand, one third of the island is protected by government conservation efforts. Arriving into Hobart International Airport (even though it technically isn't an "international" airport since it only services flights within Australia), I felt as though I'd just traveled in a time machine. Everything about Tasmania seemed to be from another generation. It wasn't just the old buildings, the aging population, and the slower pace of life... but somehow I felt like an anachronism in this strange place.

Whether it is Hobart, Launceston or Devonport, many of Tasmania's towns can be similarly described. Words like "quaint", "picturesque" and "charming" come to mind. All of the shops close down early and the nightlife is virtually nonexistent. And its citizens have a lot of free time on their hands... many shops have hand-painted murals and a lot of homes have creatively decorated mailboxes on their front lawns. This is a wonderful place to "get away from it all" and come for a treatment of urban detox.

The most memorable part of my stay was going to Cradle Mountain and hiking steeply up to Marion's Lookout (1223m). Easily Tasmania's most recognizable landmark, this dramatic mountain lies in a National Park surrounded by beautiful lakes and a wealth of wildlife. Overall, I'm glad that I got to see this part of Australia, too often overlooked by travelers.

From Hobart, I took a flight to Melbourne, the state capital of Victoria. Often compared to Montreal, this city is home to a great multicultural population, an abundance of artistic and cultural venues and festivals, a F1 Grand Prix track, an impressive casino, and the country's best fashion boutiques and restaurants.

I found a hostel in the beach neighborhood of St-Kilda, a backpacker hub with an array of hot nightspots and bars playing live music. I didn't spend much time in Melbourne's downtown district, but I was pleasantly impressed and regretted not spending more time here. It is evident that there is a lot to do in Melbourne, and three days was definitely not enough time.

Sydney Revisited (Jan 22 2006)

Sun, 22 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0800

After the hectic and adventure-filled days of New Zealand, I returned to Sydney before continuing onto Tasmania and Melbourne. I had initially planned it this way because I'd wanted to celebrate New Year's Eve in Sydney, and it turned out that most of the people I'd met along the way shared the same idea.

When I settled into my hostel in Sydney, it occurred to me that this would be the first time that I'd be staying in the same room for more than 3 nights. For the next six nights, I would be able to unpack my bag and temporarily abandon the nomadic lifestyle I'd been leading for the past six weeks. I would be able to see the city at a normal pace without any touristic itinerary.

In fact, I spent all six days (and nights) with friends I'd met earlier in Australia, New Zealand, and Fiji. It was such an amazing feeling to see these people again in a different setting. Being back in Sydney felt like returning home... So much had happened since the last time I was there... so many experiences and friends made along the way. Every day I would unexpectedly see someone I'd met in Magnetic Island, Hervey Bay, Airlie Beach or the Whitsundays.

New Year's Eve in Sydney was possibly one of the most impressive things I'd ever witnessed. Try to imagine one million people filling the streets, parks and beaches of a city, all joyously celebrating together. Some friends I'd met in Airlie Beach and Noosa joined me at Mrs. Macquarie's Point (in the Royal Botanic Gardens) early in the afternoon so that we could get a spot to sit down and watch the fireworks from. We were among nearly 30,000 people at this lookout point, offering one of the best views of Sydney Harbour bridge, the Opera House and downtown. The fireworks display, featuring the centerpiece heart on the Harbour Bridge, was spectacular. All through the night, the city was alive with partygoers roaming the streets, making it an unforgettable experience.

The following day, the temperature in Sydney reached 45 C, so nearly everyone in the city flocked to the nearby beaches. I spent the afternoon on the crowded sands of Bondi Beach (where riots had broken out just a few days earlier), drinking liters of water as I baked in the sun. The intense heat lasted until late evening, after which the temperature dropped to a windy 20 C. That night, I went out to Darling Harbour with Amanda, an Australian girl I'd met in Fiji, and two of her friends. In the morning, we drove west to Katoomba and the Blue Mountains for a day of hiking and sightseeing. Unfortunately, the thick fog made it difficult to see the blue color of the valleys and ridges.

On my last day in Sydney, I hung out at Manly Beach with Sophia, a friend whom I'd met in New Zealand. This popular surfer's hangout was packed with young people and its streets lined with surfwear boutiques, burger joints, and smoothie bars. In the evening, I went out for dinner with Amanda before heading together to King's Cross, Sydney's infamous red-light suburb. Frequented for its exciting nightlife, this was a great spot to spend my last night before saying goodbye to this wonderful city.

New Zealand Part 2: South Island (Jan 10 2006)

Tue, 10 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0800

The Maori have a saying: "Whatungarongaro he tangata, toitu he whenua." (Man will always perish, but the land will remain forever.) One can sense that there is a deep respect for nature and the environment here, with nearly one third of the country set aside as protected land. The country is also not very highly populated at 4 million, with sheep outnumbering humans 35:1. Comparing New Zealand to the United Kingdom (approximately equivalent in area), which has a population of 60 million, provides a better idea of how uncrowded it is. Much of the country's beauty is attributable to these factors, making every train or bus journey a scenic treat, rather than an opportunity to catch up on some sleep. More rugged than North Island (and only one third the amount of people), the South Island of New Zealand is a largely untouched natural splendor.

The Interislander ferry from Wellington to Picton brought us to South Island, passing through the grand maze of waterways known as Marlborough Sounds. Arriving into Picton, I boarded a train headed to Christchurch, passing through Kaikoura. Approximately three quarters of the way, something terrible happened... our train collided with a car at a crossing, killing the driver and injuring his two children (10 and 12 years old). This was especially tragic considering that Christmas was only two days away. Fortunately, none of the train passengers were injured but, naturally, we had to disembark the train and continue our journey by bus.

The following morning, I had to get back on a train destined for Arthur's Pass National Park. The actual journey, known as the TranzAlpine Rail Trip, is considered one of the world's best as it passes through some breathtaking scenery through the towering Southern Alps. I spent the day tramping various trails, hiking several hundred meters to see the famous Devil's Punchbowl Waterfall, then Scott's Trail leading up to Avalanche Peak, offering views of snow-covered mountains, glaciers and river valleys. That evening, Christmas eve, I was back in Christchurch (a fitting name for a city to spend Christmas in) for the warm and festive atmosphere in Cathedral Square.

On Christmas day, I flew to Queenstown, arguably the world's adventure capital. Aside from being an adrenaline mecca, this small town (population 15,000) has some of the most beautiful scenery New Zealand has to offer. Only 50km away lies the setting for most of the scenes in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Being a public holiday, most shops and restaurants were closed, allowing me to sit by the lake and relax for a few hours. This also being the first night of Hanukkah, and without any synagogue for hundreds of miles, I decided to buy some candles and observe the holiday by lighting a modest Menorah outdoors.

Queenstown being the birthplace of the bungy jump, where it was originally incepted by AJ Hackett in the 70s, I decided to gather the courage and take the plunge the following morning. There were three jump sites to choose from: the Kawarau Bridge (43m), the Ledge (47m), and the newest addition, the Nevis Highwire (134m!). A rational person, jumping for the first time, would probably opt for the more popular 43m Kawarau Bridge. But, feeling a little adventurous, I went for the Nevis Highwire: the world's second highest bungy site, consisting of a glass-floored gondola suspended by wire cables between two mountains over a canyon. Allow me to describe the final seconds before plunging 134m with nothing but an elastic cord tied to my ankles... I looked down and then immediately after, my animal instincts of survival and self-preservation took over, raising my heartbeat to a new level. I had to rationally convince myself that this was entirely safe and actually a lot of fun. But, of course, fear is a mighty beast that cannot be slain with ease. I don't remember exactly what happened next, but as the gondola operator counted down ("5,4,3,2... 1"), I must have gone temporarily insane because I managed to dive into the canyon and experienced an adrenaline rush unlike any other. My mind experienced a natural high for the rest of the day and night... a truly unforgettable experience.

Often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the world, Milford Sound was where I would spend the following day. This magnificent fiord is a natural spectacle... with towering peaks and cascading waterfalls surrounding me, I took a cruise through its full length... catching a glimpse of dolphins swimming and seals bathing in the waters. No words, although perhaps photographs, can faithfully describe this astonishing place.

I spent my last morning in Queenstown hiking up Te Tapunui, a mountain providing a 360-degree view of The Remarkables mountain range, Cecil Peak and Lake Wakatipu. I would have to leave Queenstown in the afternoon, and then depart New Zealand the following day. After two precious weeks, it was difficult to say goodbye to such a heartbreakingly beautiful country.

New Zealand Part 1: North Island (Jan 8 2006)

Sun, 08 Jan 2006 00:00:00 -0800

Attempting to travel across New Zealand in 2 weeks is an ambitious task. Some might even say that it is impossible, or simply not worth it. However, in those 14 days, I got a taste of a country that I hope to revisit someday.

Not surprisingly, I spent almost half the time traveling. Traversing the country required that I move around swiftly and do as much as possible with every day that I had. I became well acquainted with Air New Zealand (6 flights), TranzScenic (5 train journeys + 1 ferry crossing), and the various bus companies (7 journeys). (Not to mention dozens of airport shuttles, city buses, taxis, minivans, local ferries, etc.)

I flew into Auckland from Brisbane on a cold and cloudy afternoon... this was quite a difference from the sunny mid-thirties I'd become accustomed to in Australia. After walking around the city for a few hours, it became apparent that there wasn't much to do here and I looked for ways of getting out. Don't get me wrong, the Kiwi are very friendly people (especially the Maori), however central Auckland just lacked the charm and culture that I generally expect from a big city.

The next morning, I took a short ferry to Rangitoto Island, a relatively young volcano having emerged from the sea around 600 years ago. Only 10km northeast of the city, temperatures here reached almost 30C, and hiking the lava fields felt like walking in an oven. The tramp (hike) up to the 260m crater summit was rewarded by excellent views of Auckland and the surrounding islands.

With another day to spare before flying out of Auckland to Fiji, I decided to venture north to Paihia, in the Bay of Islands. There, I took an adventure cruise around the 144-island chain and through the famous "Hole in the Rock" and Cathedral Cave. This was also the same day that I met a friend, Sophia (an Italian girl from Germany), whom I would meet again in Queenstown and Sydney. (She had just arrived from Fiji, and had stayed in the same resort I would be going to 2 days later in Nanuya Lailai.)

Returning to Auckland after spending a week in Fiji was a bit depressing, as you can probably imagine. In the morning, I jumped on a train to Otorohanga / Waitomo (population 250!). You might be surprised to learn that this miniscule town welcomes nearly half a million tourists yearly, all for the same reason: its world-famous caves. The Waitomo caves are underground formations in which rivers flow and bioluminescent "glowworms" crawl. There, I signed up for adventure caving and blackwater rafting, in which we crawled and tubed through underground waterfalls and natural waterslides.

A few hours later, I was off to the geothermal wonderland of Rotorua. Despite the pronounced smell of sulphur in the air, this predominantly Maori town has become the most popular destination and adventure capital of North Island, shaped by stunning mountains, lakes, craters, and steaming pools. Wai-O-Tapu was my first destination here, a colorful National Park featuring geysers, sulphur caves, bubbling mud pools and the ochre- and turquoise-colored Champagne pools. Afterwards, I headed over to the Agrodome where I went Zorbing. (A Zorb is essentially a giant rubber sphere, 8 feet in diameter, inside which you are placed before being rolled down a hill.) I decided to do a HydroZorb, which is basically the same thing except that the Zorb is half-filled with water. Later, I spent the evening relaxing at the Polynesian Spa (my hostel had given me a free voucher) in the steaming 45C mineral baths overlooking rainbows on Lake Rotorua... truly breathtaking.

One of the pitfalls of traveling on such a tight schedule is that you are at the mercy of the weather. Thus, although I had initially planned to go skydiving and then tramping across the Tongariro Crossing, I was met by hard rain upon arriving in Taupo, making neither activity possible. This city is famous for being the cheapest place in the world to skydive, costing half of what one would pay in Queenstown, for example. And, the Tongariro Crossing is one of the world's great hikes across an active volcanic chain and emerald-colored lakes. The forecasts indicated that it would continue raining for a few more days, therefore I had to accept this and move along.

I spent the following afternoon in Palmerston North, also referred to as "Knowledge City" (40% of its residents are involved in higher education), before catching a train to the capital city of Wellington. After being disappointed with Auckland, I must admit that that I had low expectations for Wellington. To my surprise, it ended up being my favorite city in New Zealand, with its wide variety of diversions, its bohemian atmosphere, and its wild nightlife. Unfortunately, I was only able to spend one night in this lovely city because I needed to catch a ferry to South Island the following morning.

Fiji (Dec 21 2005)

Wed, 21 Dec 2005 00:00:00 -0800

Three days have passed, and it still feels like a dream. For most of us back home, Fiji is often thought of as being an inaccessible exotic paradise. For Australians and New Zealanders, however, going to Fiji is just as common as going to Florida is for Montrealers.

I know that this may sound odd, but spending a week in Fiji felt like I was taking a vacation from my vacation. For seven days, I didn't have to set my alarm clock in the morning and I didn't have to worry about catching an early bus or train. I wasn't busy planning my itinerary or reading through travel brochures. I was able to put down my backpack, relax, and have the time of my life.

I arrived late on a Sunday night in Nadi (pronounced "Nandi"), the largest city on the main island of Viti Levu. Upon arriving, we were greeted by charming musicians at the airport performing Fijian Christmas carols. I immediately got used to "Fiji time": a redefinition of the word "patience", implying that things take as long as they need to because there is no reason to be in a hurry in Fiji. Therefore, a 90-minute wait through customs and baggage claim, and I was on a shuttle to my hotel. Accomodations in Nadi were comfortable and surprisingly cheap... around $15/night for a bed in an air-conditioned dorm room.

The next morning, we were off to the Yasawa islands. The last stop on the island chain, Nanuya Lailai, was where I would spend the next two nights. Located near the famous Blue Lagoon, this tranquil island is only 1-km in diameter and has some of the best snorkeling in the Yasawas. There, I stayed at the Sunrise Lagoon resort, a family-owned budget retreat with beachside bures overlooking a spectacular sunrise in the early morning. Tui, the owner of the resort, welcomed us and introduce us to the other members of the Sunrise family. By the end of our stay, we all felt like we were a part of this family. (I promised Tui that I'd return here for my honeymoon.)

Now, let me emphasize something... this was not a luxury resort. In fact, what was so charming and memorable about it was the fact that it wasn't one. Electricity was only turned on between 7pm and 11pm, meaning that the showers and toilets were completely dark during the day and we had only the moonlight to illuminate our bure afterhours. Running water was very limited, so a shower was basically equivalent to piercing a small hole in a cold 1.5L Evian bottle and letting it pour over you for 45 seconds. But ultimately, that really didn't matter to any of the 40 travelers and Fijians on the resort.

Aside from relaxing and chatting on the beach, there were lots of things to do on the island. On our first afternoon at Nanuya Lailai, a few of us decided to hike to the other side of the island to bathe in the Blue Lagoon and watch the sunset. The next morning, we set out to visit the Sawailau underwater caves, which involved swimming underwater (in pitch black) for a few seconds to reach the other connecting caves... truly amazing. Afterwards, we found a tiny sand formation in the lagoon (that we named "Carlos Island", because he saw it first) where we took lots of fun and beautiful photos. Later in the afternoon, we went fishing with some of the locals... and, not surprisingly, they were the only ones that caught anything! At 5:30am the following morning, myself and a few brave friends woke up to watch the sunrise in front of our bures. (Yes, it was definitely worth waking up early for, and yes, we went back to sleep immediately after.)

Later that day, I would say goodbye to the serenity and warmth of Nanuya Lailai and head south to Beachcomber Island for two nights, known by locals as "the party island". This tiny island, situated in the Mamanuca island group, is so small that it can be circumnavigated by foot in under 7 minutes. Whereas Sunrise made you feel like a welcomed guest in someone's home, Beachcomber left you feeling like a paying tourist on vacation. (I would not be surprised to learn that the island stocked more alcohol than potable water, because it was quite apparent which was consumed more.) Since it was around school break, the island was full of American students who had been studying in Australia, stopping over in Fiji on their way home for Christmas. I also met a lot of English, Australian and Israeli backpackers, with whom I spent most of my nights. In addition to laying on the beach for hours, I also went jetskiing and parasailing during my days at Beachcomber. Parasailing was just amazing... I felt like Icarus, hovering 40m above Beachcomber and marveling at the surrounding Mamanuca islands.

On Friday morning, I left Beachcomber and returned to Nadi to get a better taste of the "real Fiji". For the next three days, I got to spend a lot more time with the locals, try out their food, experience the "transportation", and get a better grasp of their language. Since 40% of the population in Fiji is Indian, wandering downtown Nadi probably feels a lot like being in India. Nearly all of the businesses are owned by Indo-Fijians, but most of them sell native Fijian products made in the surrounding villages. Their business tactics are friendly yet aggressive, therefore bargaining is essential. (I'm actually proud of myself for paying only $10 for 1kg of kava powder, the local drink, that the merchant was initially trying to sell to me for $100. I later found out from an honest local that the normal price to pay for 1kg is $20.)

After spending a week in Fiji, it's difficult to summarize my feelings. Nanuya Lailai, Beachcomber, and Nadi were three completely different experiences, yet all incredible and surreal in their own way. It's hard to say which spot was my favorite but I do hope that au na lesu tale mai (I'll be back soon).

South Queensland (Dec 9 2005)

Fri, 09 Dec 2005 00:00:00 -0800

After leaving Magnetic Island, I arrived in Airlie Beach after a long busride (my train mysteriously got canceled). Airlie Beach is the place where backpackers end up spending hundreds of dollars on overpriced multiday sailing trips around the Whitsunday Islands. Fortunately, I was able to find something more affordable... Ocean Rafting. Covering essentially the same route as the sailing tours, the ocean rafts are a lot faster and, in my opinion, more fun than sailboats. My two-day tour around the Whitsunday Islands ended up being one of the highlights of my time in Australia. In addition to touring the islands, we were taken snorkeling and hiking around the Whitsundays. However, it is Whitehaven Beach that proved to be my favorite part of the tour. The pristine waters and stunning stretch of white silica sand have redefined the meaning of the word beach for me. My nights in Airlie Beach were also just as memorable. There, I ended up seeing a lot of the friends I'd made in Cairns and Magnetic Island, and met several new ones.

Hervey Bay was the next stop, after taking an overnight train from Airlie Beach. Upon arriving, I met a bunch of Israeli travelers and we spent most of Friday night together at the resto-bar in my hostel, providing me the chance to practice my limited Hebrew. The next morning, I left on an organized two-day trip to Fraser Island - the world's largest sand island. Due to the fact that none of the roads are paved, Fraser Island's sand tracks are only navigable with a 4WD vehicle. In fact, the official highway of the island is a beach - the Seventy-Five Mile Beach. This beautiful rainforest island is full of wonders... silica sand lakes, large lizards, dingoes, colored sand pinnacles, freshwater creeks, champagne pools, and naturally... lovely beaches (with sharks). The tour itself was just amazing and our guide happened to be one of Australia's most prominent photographers (see his website). The two Danish girls I'd met on my first day in Sydney also happened to be on the bus, and I ended up meeting tons of new friends from across the globe.

After Fraser Island, I spent a couple of days in Brisbane and Noosa before heading off to New Zealand. Unfortunately, I didn't have ample time to appreciate both cities fully, but it was definitely worth the detour.

North Queensland Part 2 (Nov 28 2005)

Mon, 28 Nov 2005 00:00:00 -0800

After spending two memorable nights in Cairns at the Gilligan's Backpackers hotel, I took the train on Thursday for Townsville. I must admit that I was a bit sad to leave Cairns... I'd spent a few days there and had made a lot of new friends, so parting was difficult. Although Townsville itself is nothing special, this is the place where everyone stops before heading off to Magnetic Island.

This tiny island, approximately 10km wide, was so-named by Captain Cook in 1770 because his compass had acted strangely when he sailed past it. Approximately 50% of the island is designated a National Park, and is full of wildlife including koalas and possums. Unfortunately, I haven't yet seen any koalas, but I regularly have to deal with possums around the table at dinnertime.

For the past 3 nights, I stayed at the Base Magnetic hostel, Australia's only backpacker resort located right on the beach. The weekend has been a non-stop party and we've had nothing but beautiful weather (30-35 C every day). The female to male ratio at this paradisial resort is incredibly high. Quite often, I was the only male at the swimming pool surrounded by dozens of girls... and last night, there were 7 people staying in the room: 6 ladies and myself.

Of course, there were plenty of other distractions on the island. On Saturday, some friends and I rented kayaks and we ventured into the sea. After an hour, our muscles couldn't take it any longer, so we just let the current bring us back to the beach. Later that evening, I went for a hike up to the lookout at Picnic Bay to see the colorful sunset, and then yesterday I went for a 5km hike in the mountains from Arcadia to Nelly Bay with another friend. There were some spectacular views and lovely plantlife, but we unfortunately didn't see many animals. We finished the hike by walking along the beach until our resort, where we then went for a well-deserved swim in the pool.

The most memorable part of this weekend, however, has been all of the people I've met. Most of the travelers I met were from England, Holland and Canada, and many of them have great journeys ahead of them. A few of us will continue together today to Airlie Beach where we will probably go sailing around the Whitsundays.

North Queensland Part 1 (Nov 22 2005)

Tue, 22 Nov 2005 00:00:00 -0800

Last Thursday, I left Sydney and flew over to Cairns. Located at the northeastern tip of the country, this small city is full of backpackers. There are tour operators on every corner, all trying to sell a diving, snorkeling, skydiving or bungee package to young tourists. The youth hostel where I stayed at was pretty nice, although a bit far from the action (15-minute walk to the beach). It was, however, very close to the largest shopping center in Cairns, so I was able to eat and shop for groceries just by crossing the street.

On my second night, I took part in a barhop, in which we went to all the best nightspots in a single night. I ended up meeting tons of travelers, many of whom were planning on visiting some of the same countries as me. I actually met two Irish girls who were visiting the same countries as me in reverse order (thus, they started in India and were at the end of their journey in Australia).

Upon arriving at Cairns airport, I had met two girls from Montreal who were vacationing in Australia for 3 weeks. We ended up meeting again at the lagoon the following day, where we decided to book a snorkeling tour for Saturday morning. This ended up being a lot of fun... we left the port at aroud 7:00am and arrived at a good spot on the Great Barrier Reef at around 10:30am. There, we were dropped into the ocean with all our gear, and I got to try out my Aquapac camera case. As the photos show, I got to see some impressively colorful aquatic life.

On Sunday morning I took a bus up to Daintree (Cape Tribulation), located in the Tropical North, where the Great Barrier Reef meets the rainforest. I stayed at the secluded Crocodylus Village, where I slept in a hut in the middle of the rainforest. Basically, I would open my hut door and the forest was right in front of me. There were all kinds of exotic birds, poisonous plants, lizards and insects around my hut, so I had to be very careful where I walked. (At night, I had to sleep with a mosquito net.)

My first day there, I did a 13km walk/hike up to the beach up to Alexandra Bay. Once I arrived, it was sublime... I had several kilometers of beach all to myself, without a single person in sight. Of course, the reason why nobody frequented the beach at this time was because it was jellyfish/stinger season. The next day, I rented a bicycle and took the road to Cape Tribulation / Thornton Beach (24km). Once again, lovely beaches, but this time there were a few more people around. And the third day (today), I ventured 2km into the rainforest where I saw some of the coolest creatures and plantlife. In retrospect, it was probably unsafe to do alone, but fortunately I had my GPS receiver to help me find my way back to my hut.

At this moment, I'm back in Cairns, continuing the rest of my stay in North Queensland. I'll try to post again in a few days.

First Impressions of Sydney (Nov 17 2005)

Thu, 17 Nov 2005 00:00:00 -0800

Today I depart Sydney and fly to Cairns (pronounced "cans") in the northeast. During my 2 days here, the rainy weather limited me somewhat so I roamed (on foot) exclusively around the central business district (CBD) and The Rocks. I didn't get to visit the adjacent neighborhoods or beaches, but I'll be sure to do so when I come back to Sydney at the end of December. However, in my limited time, I did see Darling Harbour, Pitt Street (the shopping Mecca of Sydney), Hyde Park, Town Hall, Circular Quay, the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, the Parliament House, and the Royal Botanic Gardens. Now that I've gotten most of the "tourist stuff" out of the way, I'll be sure to enjoy myself upon my second visit to Sydney.

To be honest, I haven't enjoyed the nightlife here yet, seeing that I've been asleep by 10pm the last two nights. I've been told that the best nightspots are outside of Sydney, mainly in Kings Cross and Bondi/Coogee beaches. The food here is excellent and healthy, with a noticeable Asian influence, therefore there's usually a Sushi or Thai restaurant on every block. It's also reasonably priced, so I'm able to have breakfast, lunch and dinner for under $20 in total.

I currently have a love-hate relationship with Australian currency. Since it's almost equivalent to the Canadian dollar, I don't worry about any conversion calculations when buying stuff. The bills are beautiful, made of a silk-like paper with a transparent "window" in the banknote, as a security feature. However, my problem is with Australian coins: I hate them. They are huge and heavy, especially the 20-cent and 50-cent coins, both of which are larger and thicker than a Canadian $2 coin. Conversely, their $1 and $2 coins are small and not easy to tell apart. Thus, I imagine that one day I'll find myself with a hole in my pocket and only 40 cents left to repair it.

The best part of my stay in Sydney has been the youth hostel. It's a little bit expensive (around $25 Canadian a night), but very comfortable and modern. It's very well located and has all the amenities one would find in a decent hotel. (I unfortunately wasn't able to secure this place for New Years Eve when I booked my stay in early August... it was already sold out then.) The (shared) bathrooms and showers are clean and brand new, the lobby has over a dozen internet stations (with the ability to print photos and burn CDs), and the lounge has a 40-inch plasma TV on the wall. The people are amazing... I'm constantly hearing different languages being spoken around me and I share my room with 5 very friendly people: 2 guys (from Ireland and Japan) and 3 girls (from Denmark and Germany). Actually, the two Danes are also continuing their journey to Cairns today, so we'll probably meet again over the next couple of weeks.

It's currently 5:45am as I write this and I'm the only insomniac awake in the hostel. I'm sure that my internal clock will get adjusted once I'm able to take a nap on the flight today, so I'm looking forward to that.

I'll post again in a few days,
Michael

Arrived in Sydney (Nov 15 2005)

Tue, 15 Nov 2005 00:00:00 -0800

After 21 hours of traveling, I've finally arrived at my first destination. The three flights were pleasant... Montreal-Vancouver took 5 hours, Vancouver-Honolulu took another 5.5 hours, and then Honolulu-Sydney lasted about 10.5 hours. Fortunately, nobody sat next to me on the two latter flights, so I was able to lie down and get some rest.

Arriving in Honolulu was a cool experience... (We were supposed to stop there to refuel, so it meant that I had to go through US customs in Vancouver.) When we landed there, it was pitch dark, so the plane approached the island of Oahu above the black waves of the Pacific. We didn't see a runway until a few seconds before touching the ground, so it looked as though we were landing on water. Quite fittingly, the in-flight movie being shown was The Island, which is also coincidental because it was directed by the same guy who did Pearl Harbor (located on that very island). Anyway, we spent about two hours waiting in the airport before I could begin the second half of the journey.

The flight from Honolulu to Sydney was LONG, but tolerable. The weird thing is that I left Honolulu on Sunday the 13th and arrived in Sydney on Tuesday the 15th. Thus, Monday the 14th was lost. Normally, travelers returning back home from Australia regain that lost day when traveling eastbound, but my flight home will be westbound from Delhi... so, I've lost a day and I'll never get it back. It's all a bit confusing but I can't complain now that I'm here.

The airport is typically American/Canadian... with McDonalds, Starbucks and Krispy Kreme to choose from (I chose the latter). From there, I took a shuttle to my youth hostel... so right now, I'm writing from there. Since it's 10:30am here, everyone in my room is sleeping, so I just dropped off my luggage and came down to the lobby.

I'm not sure what I'll do today, but the weather is beautiful... however I definitely need to take a nap. I'm only in Sydney for two days before I fly north to Cairns on Thursday, but I'll be back here again for New Year's Eve for a few more days. Anyway... I bought a card for my cell phone and posted the telephone number in the Contact section of the website. It's free for me to receive calls, so you can call me anytime (though you'll have to incur the long distance charges).

I'll try to write again soon... hopefully with some photos next time.

I miss you all,
Michael